Ready to plant something?

Carrots can be planted now.

Countdown to growing season!


This weekend the weather was warm. Daylight savings time began. And it's just 7 days until spring. Must be about time to plant something--and it is!
Right about mid-March is when we can plant those cool season veggies. Here are some choices you can start planting now:

• Early lettuce, like bibb
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Carrots
• Sugar snap peas or other peas that mature early.

Once these veggies are harvested in about mid-May, the garden can be re-planted with warm season crops--like broccoli, cauliflower, small cabbage and peas. When that crop is harvested around mid-July, that garden plot can again be planted with a repeat of the cool-season varieties. At that time, you can also add green onions and early-maturing snap beans. These plants should mature and be ready to harvest before the early fall frost.

When planting three successive crops, the key to pulling it all off in about six months is in counting the days to maturity--in other words, the time it takes for the seed to mature and yield vegetables ripe enough to pick.

Iceberg lettuce is generally 60 days from planting to harvest. Bibb lettuce matures in about 46 days--but the crop can be thinned out as early as 28 days. In Colorado's growing season, selecting varieties that mature more quickly, like bibb over iceberg, is what makes those three successive crops possible.

How do you know days to maturity? Check the back of the seed packet. The label will have valuable planting information and that includes days to maturity for the seeds inside.

And don't forget to plant some color! We're still about two months out for planting petunias and all the other annuals. But pansies can be planted as long as they have been hardened off to be accustomed to being outdoors. If you cover them with fabric when temps get below freezing, pansies can be planted either in pots or in the ground.

Pansies are Mother Nature's gift of early spring here in Colorado. They are the early flowers of the season that help us survive until we can go wild planting all those wonderful annuals!




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Water by the thermometer, not the calendar

The calendar says it's officially fall, but the last two weeks in September have been more like the first two weeks in August in terms of precip and daily high temps.

This September has been about the sixth hottest and driest on record, so the standard operating procedures for watering Kentucky bluegrass lawns do not apply.

September and early October are critical times for lawn care and moisture. The absolute worst thing you can do for a lawn is to allow it to become drought stressed just prior to going into winter. Drought stress will push the lawn into early dormancy causing it to shut down its energy before the grass plants have had time to store up nutrients needed to survive the winter months.

Think of bears that need to stoke up on food and fatten up before hibernating. It's similar with turfgrass. It needs to be in optimal health before taking its long winter nap.

Turfgrass is a perennial plant that moves through an annual cycle that involves spring/summer growth, storing energy to prepare for winter, winter dormancy and re-emergence in spring. So, what's the plan for right now?

Water. If your lawn is moving into dormancy and drying out, make sure it gets sufficient water. Keep watering about twice per week. Push a screwdriver into the soil to see how hard the soil is. It should go down several inches and easily.

Winterize the sprinkler system by blowing out the lines with compressed air. Remember it was a hard freeze the first week in October last year that damaged many non-winterized sprinkler systems along the Front Range.

Keep watering even after the system is winterized. Haul out the hose and keep watering as long as temps are warm.

Water all winter long--usually about once per month. Winter is when lawns lose their density due to lack of moisture and it takes far more water in spring to bring a lawn back than if you do winter watering. Check south and west facing lawns as they dry out faster due to more sun.

Fertilize one more time in the last half of October. Ironically, it's the two fall-ish fertilizations--the one around Labor Day and the one in late October--that are two of the three most important times to fertilize the lawn. Remember those bears.

Aerate if you can. Spring aeration is most beneficial, but if you can aerate in the fall it's another healthy step for your lawn.

Finally, mow the last couple of times to tuck your lawn in neatly for the winter.

Lawn under control, settle into fall. Plant some bulbs. Carve the pumpkin. And enjoy the down time 'til spring.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Fall is for loving your lawn

The calendar may still say summer. But in Colorado, the thermometer is already saying fall-ish.

We've noticed daily highs getting cooler and the daylight hours getting shorter. But did you notice the much cooler nights?

Right now, average night-time low temps are more than 10 degrees cooler than they were on August 1st. Cooler night-time lows mean fall is in the air and especially so, for the lawn. Cooler nights combined with fewer hours of daylight slows lawn growth considerably. And that means it's really time to crank down the water and soon, slow down the mowing.

Grass in fall mode needs less water and less mowing the closer we get to the official start date of fall in just a couple weeks.

Even with the grass slowing down, you still need to love your lawn a little longer this growing season with a bit more TLC. Do these fall lawn activities and you will build a hardier lawn for the winter and see a stronger come-back next spring.

• Apply a final application of fertilizer timed around the first day of fall, September 23rd. Using the same fertilizer you used earlier this season is fine. But if you need to buy more, look for a formulation high in Nitrogen and Potassium because these minerals are good for the roots.
• Core aerate the lawn before winterizing the sprinkler system. Aeration pulls plugs of soil and sod out of the lawn and these holes open up the soil so that the roots can take in maximum moisture during the winter.
• Zap turf weeds. Here's your last chance for this year to get after turf weeds. Giving one last round of control will really pay off next spring in terms of fewer weeds at the start of the season.
• Get expert help if you have had fungus or other turf disease or insect problems this summer.

Cultural practices like fertilization and aeration go a long way to reduce disease. But it's still a good idea to get problems properly diagnosed so you know what to do now and maybe next spring to get problems under control for good.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Welcome Springtime!

Bulbs planted last fall are the early taste of spring.


Spring's eruption in sensational color is a jolt to the senses. Wow! It's all around us--up in the pear trees, down in the tulips and grape hyacinths and at eye level in the forsythia.

The gift of spring is way and above what the other seasons have to offer. Spring color is our reward for making it through yet another Colorado winter. So savor it, smell it, indulge in its sheer bliss.

Also, be thankful to Mother Nature who knows, just like all good mothers, that too much of a good thing is a spoiler. She lets us have dessert first, but then moves us through the seasons to a more refined diet.

Her strategy is smart because the burst of spring wets our appetites to get outside and motivates us to plant.

So if we're going to plant, we need to think about what those plants will be. What do we want to see growing around us and enjoy during the other seasons? What plants will thrive in the sizzle of summer? What should we plant now to give us the subdued shades of fall? What will enhance the cold subtleties of winter?

To help you explore some of the options, ALCC offers a new photo gallery, Plants for All Seasons, where you can find ideas for plants that will colorize your landscape all year long. We are grateful to Colorado State University and Plant Select for sharing plants they have developed that are so very suitable for Colorado's growing conditions and that require minimal water. These are plants to spiff up and round out any landscape.

One month from now, we'll be planting petunias. Two months from now, we can plant anything. Between now and then, enjoy spring and decide what you'll plant this year to enhance your outdoor world.

Photo courtesy Lauren Bloom, Colorado Concrete and Landscape.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide.
Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC.

Snow Mold on Colorado Front Range lawns

Gray snow mold, caused by the fungus Typhula incarnate can occur on many Front Range lawns. Snow mold occurs during periods of prolonged snow cover, but can also occur where leaves and other debris have accumulated on lawns during the fall and winter. North-facing lawns, shaded lawns and areas where snowplowing or drifting snow created especially deep snow will be most commonly affected.

The fungus is active in moist lawns at temperatures just above freezing. Circular patches (6-12 inches) will have a moldy appearance when fungus is actively growing - usually just as the snow melts. Under severe conditions, these smaller patches may grow together to form large, matted areas that appear to be dead. As the lawn begins to dry out the fungal growth slows. Patches can take on a light tan appearance, fading to light gray or white.

This disease rarely kills home bluegrass lawns, although young seedlings from a late fall seeding may be killed (fall sod will be OK).

Fungicide applications are not recommended when snow mold occurs in a home lawn. Spring fungicide applications will NOT effectively control or prevent the disease, nor will fungicide use hasten spring turf recovery.

The best way to speed recovery is to remove dead and matted material by light raking to promote air circulation and drying. Light spring nitrogen fertilization (especially if no fertilizer was applied the previous fall) will help speed the growth of new grass from the underground stems that are not harmed by the snow mold fungus. Lawns that appear slow to recover this spring will benefit from core cultivation, followed by over seeding with the same grass species already present in the lawn.

Contrary to popular belief, late-season fertilization (also referred to as "fall" or "winterizer" fertilization) neither encourages snow mold nor increases its severity. In fact, late-season/fall fertilization will encourage more rapid healing and recovery when lawns are afflicted with snow mold.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1543.html