It's time to light up the holidays

The long weekend after Thanksgiving is when most of us start hauling out the holiday lights.

What's broken? What's out of date? What can we put up for more WOW-factor this year? Can I cut the energy cost and still have high impact?
Here are some ideas for a fresh and cost effective look for your holiday lights in 2010.

Multicolor is out
Multi-color displays have been on the downturn for awhile. For 2010, the lighting designers are featuring simple color schemes with white and one other color, or no more than white and two colors.

To gain maximum effect with these uncomplicated color schemes use strands of bulbs in varying sizes. Read on for examples.

Don't pitch the icicle lights
Even though icicles have been around for awhile, they're not passé. They are, however, being used in new combinations that up the impact. String icicle lights as they are traditionally hung to cascade off the gutter line of the roof. This year, add a string of larger white lights with bulbs about 1 ½ inches long (C-7s is the technical term) along the gutter line. The size variation in the lights creates two kinds of light and the appearance of twinkling lights. Small variation, big impact.

New style for trees
Trees also take on a better look when combining mini-lights with the larger bulbs. The larger bulbs give bigger, brighter light. The smaller bulbs add softness to the overall display. Create a new look in your yard by wrapping the trunk of the tree with white mini-lights and making a canopy of one bright color, such as red, in larger bulbs on the limbs.

How to string lights on trees:

• Wrap lights around evergreen trees. If there is more than one evergreen in your yard, wrap lights in the same direction and keep spacing between rows consistent from tree to tree. This technique makes for a uniform appearance.
• For deciduous trees, avoid wrapping light strands in a circular pattern in the branches. Instead, play off the tree's natural structure for a more dramatic look by running the lights along the length of the limbs.

Be creative
Lights don't have to be limited to trees and roof lines. Use other structural elements like pillars, fences and gazebos that can easily be illuminated to add to your display. Also think of lighting whimsical items like old skis, a wheel barrow or the little red wagon for a welcoming focal point close to the front door.

Go sustainable
This year, replace worn out lights with LEDs. They are just as user-friendly as they are environmentally friendly. Have you heard that you can connect 120 strands of LEDs end to end and plug the whole line into one extension cord that goes into a single power outlet? That's the ultimate no-jolt job.

LEDs also use about 80% less power than conventional holiday lights and they last four to five times longer. You will pay more up-front, but that cost is soon recovered in energy cost savings and fewer replacements. Using less total material over a longer lifetime is a major sustainable advantage.



Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Fall and Winter Watering Tips

Fall and Winter Watering
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07211.html


by J.E. Klett and C. Wilson1 (7/08)

Quick Facts...

Water trees, shrubs, lawns, and perennials during prolonged dry fall and winter periods to prevent root damage that affects the health of the entire plant.

Water only when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F with no snow cover.

Established large trees have a root spread equal to or greater than the height of the tree. Apply water to the most critical part of the root zone within the dripline.

Dry air, low precipitation, little soil moisture, and fluctuating temperatures are characteristics of fall and winter in many areas of Colorado. There often can be little or no snow cover to provide soil moisture, particularly from October through March. Trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns can be damaged if they do not receive supplemental water.

The result of long, dry periods during fall and winter is injury or death to parts of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened and all or parts may die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Weakened plants also may be subject to insect and disease problems.

Plants Sensitive to Drought Injury
Woody plants with shallow root systems require supplemental watering during extended dry fall and winter periods. These include European white and paper birches; Norway, silver, red, Rocky Mountain, and hybrid maples; lindens, alder, hornbeams, dogwood, willows, and mountain ash. Evergreen plants that benefit include spruce, fir, arborvitae, yew, Oregon grape-holly, boxwood, and Manhattan euonymus. Woody plants benefit from mulch to conserve soil moisture.

Herbaceous perennials and ground covers in exposed sites are more subject to winter freezing and thawing. This opens cracks in soil that expose roots to cold and drying. Winter watering combined with mulching can prevent damage (See fact sheet 7.214, Mulches for Home Grounds.)

Lawns also are prone to winter damage. Newly established lawns, whether seed or sod, are especially susceptible to damage. Susceptibility increases for lawns with south or west exposures.

Watering Guidelines
Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night. A solid layer (persisting for more than a month) of ice on lawns can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.

Plants receiving reflected heat from buildings, walls and fences are more subject to damage. The low angle of winter sun makes this more likely in south or west exposures. Windy sites result in faster drying of sod and plants and require additional water. Lawns in warm exposures are prone to late winter mite damage. Water is the best treatment to prevent turf injury (see fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass).

Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods without snow cover—one to two times per month.

Newly Planted vs. Established Plants
Newly planted trees are most susceptible to winter drought injury. Woody trees generally take one year to establish for each inch of trunk diameter. For example, a two inch diameter (caliper) tree takes a minimum of two years to establish under normal conditions.

Trees obtain water best when it is allowed to soak into the soil slowly to a depth of 12 inches. Methods of watering trees include: sprinklers, deep-root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline and beyond if possible. If you use a deep-root fork or needle, insert no deeper than 8 inches into the soil. As a general survival rule, apply 10 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree. For example, a two-inch diameter tree needs 20 gallons per watering. Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

Newly planted shrubs require more water than established shrubs that have been planted for at least one year. The following recommendations assume shrubs are mulched to retain moisture. In dry winters, all shrubs benefit from winter watering from October through March. Apply 5 gallons two times per month for a newly planted shrub. Small established shrubs (less than 3 feet tall) should receive 5 gallons monthly. Large established shrubs (more than 6 feet) require 18 gallons on a monthly basis. Decrease amounts to account for precipitation. Water within the dripline of the shrub and around the base.

Herbaceous perennial establishment periods vary. Bare root plants require longer to establish than container plants. Perennials transplanted late in the fall will not establish as quickly as plants planted in spring. Winter watering is advisable with late planted perennials, bare root plants, and perennials located in windy or southwest exposures.

For more information, see the following Planttalk ColoradoTM script.
1751, Fall and Winter Watering: during drought

1J.E. Klett, Colorado State University Extension horticulture specialist and professor, horticulture and landscape architecture; and C. Wilson, Extension horticulture agent, Denver County. 1/04. Revised 7/08.

Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating.CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.

Be Careful What You Throw In The Compost Pile!



Oak Leaves are not
 good for compost



The last pumpkin has been picked and the tomatoes are gone, so the final chore in the garden is fall clean-up.  Much of the veggie garden and other landscape debris is great fodder for the compost pile. But before you pitch everything in, consider some dos and don'ts for fall clean-up and composting.

Why remove garden debris in the fall?  Leaves and dead plants left on top of the soil can harbor insects over the winter and perpetuate diseases into the next growing season.  For the sake of the soil and the success of next year's garden, it's best not to procrastinate on the clean-up.  As with many landscape chores, clean-up done at the end of one season builds into the success of the next one.

Tomato plants.  If your plants had problems this year with insects or disease, you'll be better off not putting dead tomato plants into the compost pile.  Not every home compost pile reaches and maintains the high temps needed to kill insects or disease.  In the long run, it's best to play it safe and pitch those plants into the trash.

Squash and pumpkin vines.  The debris from squash and pumpkins will take up to three years to decompose sufficiently to be used as compost.  Again, it's better to discard this debris in the trash. But go ahead and put other plant material like pepper plants into the pile.

Leaves from trees

• Leaves to avoid.  Certain leaves are high in tannins which you want to avoid putting into the compost.  In Colorado, the most common leaves to leave out are oak and cottonwood.  

• Shaken not stirred equals raked not shredded in the compost cocktail.  For leaves that you will pitch into the compost, avoid shredding them before composting.  While it's convenient to mulch the leaves with the lawn mower and collect them in the bag so you can just shake them into the pile, don't be tempted. If you want to use leaves for composting, rake them instead.  Raking keeps leaves fluffy and this helps to aerate the compost.  

Evergreen needles.  Needles from pine, spruce and other evergreens are high in acid and contain sap.  Since these ingredients aren't good for the compost mix, don't pitch needles into the pile.

If you're still going strong after the fall clean-up:  do your garden a favor and till in some compost.  Adding compost in the fall and tilling it well into the soil will give it the time it needs over the winter to break down.  Next spring at planting time, your soil will already be in prime shape to grow early season veggies.  

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Gardening At Altitude: This anniversary is all wet

Check out the article featured in The Boulder Daily Camera. FLM Account Manager DJ Caldwell was interviewed for this piece. This is also the first time a daily newspaper has mentioned the Landscape Industry Certified Technicians program! This same article is also running in the Longmont Times-Call and Loveland Herald.
http://www.dailycamera.com/lifestyles/ci_16319366

Don't get caught with frozen sprinklers!

Last year right about now, hundreds of Front Range homeowners had serious damage to their sprinkler systems when temperatures took an early dive well below freezing. As current nighttime temps keep falling, we know this year's first freeze can't be far away.

The backflow is outside,
usually next to the foundation.


The unseasonal surprise last year caught many homeowners off guard because their sprinklers had not yet been winterized or protected. If you haven't yet scheduled to have your system winterized by having it blown out with compressed air, set up an appointment with a landscape professional.

Next, protect your system from a freeze that may occur before it's winterized. The most vulnerable part of the system is called the backflow prevention (BFP) device. It keeps the water that's in your sprinkler system from backing up into the domestic water inside your house. It is also one of the most expensive components of the sprinkler system.

Here's what you can do now to protect the backflow device from an early freeze. These precautions protect from those early freezes and still allow you to run your sprinkler system.

• Turn the valve handle at a 45 degree angle.
• Wrap the device with a towel.
• Then wrap everything with a plastic bag that you tape or secure in place.

After you have stopped watering for the year and before your system is winterized, take these additional precautions before winter sets in.

• Drain the backflow so there is no more water inside. If you don't know how to do this, call a pro.
• You won't be able to operate your sprinkler system after draining it, so you are ready for the final step of irrigation system protection which is having the system winterized.

Winterizing the sprinkler system requires hooking up an air compressor to the sprinkler system. The compressor pushes air into the lines to blow out the water. Water expands when it freezes. So pipes full of water will burst from the expansion and pressure when the water freezes. Repairs can be extensive and also expensive.

That's why it is critical to have the sprinkler system properly winterized. It is one job that's usually best done by a professional who has both the equipment and the know-how to get the water out of the lines.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Water by the thermometer, not the calendar

The calendar says it's officially fall, but the last two weeks in September have been more like the first two weeks in August in terms of precip and daily high temps.

This September has been about the sixth hottest and driest on record, so the standard operating procedures for watering Kentucky bluegrass lawns do not apply.

September and early October are critical times for lawn care and moisture. The absolute worst thing you can do for a lawn is to allow it to become drought stressed just prior to going into winter. Drought stress will push the lawn into early dormancy causing it to shut down its energy before the grass plants have had time to store up nutrients needed to survive the winter months.

Think of bears that need to stoke up on food and fatten up before hibernating. It's similar with turfgrass. It needs to be in optimal health before taking its long winter nap.

Turfgrass is a perennial plant that moves through an annual cycle that involves spring/summer growth, storing energy to prepare for winter, winter dormancy and re-emergence in spring. So, what's the plan for right now?

Water. If your lawn is moving into dormancy and drying out, make sure it gets sufficient water. Keep watering about twice per week. Push a screwdriver into the soil to see how hard the soil is. It should go down several inches and easily.

Winterize the sprinkler system by blowing out the lines with compressed air. Remember it was a hard freeze the first week in October last year that damaged many non-winterized sprinkler systems along the Front Range.

Keep watering even after the system is winterized. Haul out the hose and keep watering as long as temps are warm.

Water all winter long--usually about once per month. Winter is when lawns lose their density due to lack of moisture and it takes far more water in spring to bring a lawn back than if you do winter watering. Check south and west facing lawns as they dry out faster due to more sun.

Fertilize one more time in the last half of October. Ironically, it's the two fall-ish fertilizations--the one around Labor Day and the one in late October--that are two of the three most important times to fertilize the lawn. Remember those bears.

Aerate if you can. Spring aeration is most beneficial, but if you can aerate in the fall it's another healthy step for your lawn.

Finally, mow the last couple of times to tuck your lawn in neatly for the winter.

Lawn under control, settle into fall. Plant some bulbs. Carve the pumpkin. And enjoy the down time 'til spring.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Fall is for loving your lawn

The calendar may still say summer. But in Colorado, the thermometer is already saying fall-ish.

We've noticed daily highs getting cooler and the daylight hours getting shorter. But did you notice the much cooler nights?

Right now, average night-time low temps are more than 10 degrees cooler than they were on August 1st. Cooler night-time lows mean fall is in the air and especially so, for the lawn. Cooler nights combined with fewer hours of daylight slows lawn growth considerably. And that means it's really time to crank down the water and soon, slow down the mowing.

Grass in fall mode needs less water and less mowing the closer we get to the official start date of fall in just a couple weeks.

Even with the grass slowing down, you still need to love your lawn a little longer this growing season with a bit more TLC. Do these fall lawn activities and you will build a hardier lawn for the winter and see a stronger come-back next spring.

• Apply a final application of fertilizer timed around the first day of fall, September 23rd. Using the same fertilizer you used earlier this season is fine. But if you need to buy more, look for a formulation high in Nitrogen and Potassium because these minerals are good for the roots.
• Core aerate the lawn before winterizing the sprinkler system. Aeration pulls plugs of soil and sod out of the lawn and these holes open up the soil so that the roots can take in maximum moisture during the winter.
• Zap turf weeds. Here's your last chance for this year to get after turf weeds. Giving one last round of control will really pay off next spring in terms of fewer weeds at the start of the season.
• Get expert help if you have had fungus or other turf disease or insect problems this summer.

Cultural practices like fertilization and aeration go a long way to reduce disease. But it's still a good idea to get problems properly diagnosed so you know what to do now and maybe next spring to get problems under control for good.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Get out the pruners and shape up some plants!

Long Handled Pruners

Hand Pruners are the basic pruning tool

By Labor Day, the flowers are taking care of themselves and the veggies only need picking, so most gardeners can easily turn their attention to pruning their trees and shrubs. Late summer pruning is very good for deciduous trees, especially. You can remove unneeded foliage that can overload with snow and break branches when those early snowstorms come before the leaves have dropped.

Make sure you have the right tools for the job:

• Hand pruners are the basic pruning tool. Use pruners to cut branches up to 1 inch in diameter.
• Long-handled pruners cut branches up to a 2 to 2 ½ inch diameter.
• A hand saw can cut larger branches, but use it standing on the ground.
• A pole pruner or pole saw will extend your reach high into the tree. Again, use it while standing on the ground.
• Got a ladder? Leave it in the garage. If you need a ladder to prune, you need to call a tree specialist because he will have the right equipment for the job.

What can you prune in the fall? Basically most shrubs and deciduous trees that need to be lightened to avoid early storm damage or that have overgrown the available space.

Are there plants you shouldn't prune now? Spring-flowering plants like lilac and forsythia have already set the buds that will be next spring's flowers. So if you prune them now, you will lose those spring blooms. Prune flowering plants next spring after they have bloomed. Ornamental grasses should also be left in place for winter interest.

Tips to make the best cut:

• Avoid what's called a flush cut that severs the branch right next to the trunk of the tree. Look for the tree branch collar where the branch joins the tree and cut outside that collar.
• Never cut the main leader of a tree unless it is damaged.
• Don't chop off a branch half-way between the trunk and the tip of the branch. Either cut the whole branch off or thin it by removing secondary branches.
• Leave the pruning wounds open and natural. The tree knows what to do to seal off the cut and covering the wound with paint or tar is neither necessary nor helpful to the tree.
• If large branches need to be pruned or if you're not sure how to prune for the proper shape, call a professional arborist who has been trained to prune both for the plant's health and its good looks.

 
Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Does your lawn look sick or healthy?

Really hot temps mean stress and disease problems for lawns. If your lawn looks less than lovely, here are some tips to help you diagnose potential problems.

Drought stress
Does the lawn have a bluish cast? Has it turned a straw color in some areas or throughout the lawn? If you push a screwdriver into the soil, is the soil hard, keeping the tool from going very far into the soil? "Yes" answers indicate drought stress.

What to do: If there are patches of dry grass like the one above, check out the sprinkler system for problems that impede water coverage. Drought stress due to high temps and lack of water will turn Kentucky bluegrass a blonde color. If there is no traffic on the lawn--such as kids playing soccer--the grass will recover on its own as temperatures come down.

If the lawn has traffic, increase water to bring it out of dormancy. Avoid applying fertilizers while the grass is dormant as that is too much of a shock. When the grass begins to green up, you can fertilize.

Dollar Spot
Do you look across the lawn and see rounded or oblong spots that look bleached? If so, you may have Dollar Spot. The bad news is that lawnmowers can spread the spores of this disease from one area of the yard to another. The good news is that of all the turf diseases to have, this one is the least serious.
Dollar spot usually develops when the turf is heat and drought stressed and nitrogen deficient. Regular watering and some fertilizer along with regular mowing will usually relieve the problem within a couple weeks.

Necrotic Ring Spot (NRS)
Do you see very large rings or donut-shapes about 6 to 8 inches across that are scattered throughout the lawn? The donut shape looks brown and dead while the hole inside is green.
If this is what you see, you may have NRS--a more serious fungus problem. NRS is a root problem that actually happened in May, but doesn't show up until the intense heat of July/August. Since the roots are dead, there is little you can do for the brown areas now and that is why applying a fungicide this time of year won't help.
The most effective treatment for NRS is an ongoing health program that will build strong roots that are resistant to disease. Provide adequate water without over-watering. This fall, aerate the lawn, top dress with compost and seed with perennial rye.

Melting Out
Does the lawn look very gray and does the grass look collapsed? These are signs of a less common but serious condition known as Melting Out. If you suspect your lawn has this condition, act quickly and consult with a lawn pro.
Melting out typically requires a fungicide applied right away that's followed with adequate watering and fertilizer at the right time. This is a serious turf grass problem that will take considerable care and time for recovery.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Flowers--where do they come from?

Judging in progress at 2010 trials.

Petunias, geranium, coleus, impatiens, begonias. They're giving us a good season of color decorating our private porches and patios and public restaurants and malls. But do you know before they all got there, where those flowers came from?

Here's a Colorado-proud moment: many of the flower varieties not only enjoyed by us--but the rest of the country--got their start in Colorado. We've got what it takes to separate the fluff from the hardy: pounding hail, harsh winds, scorching sun, dry climate.

It seems the rest of the country appreciates that if an annual can survive in Colorado and keep on bloomin', it could live darn near anywhere.

Last week green industry pros gathered at one of three Colorado plant trials, this one hosted by local grower Welby Gardens at Country Fair Garden Center in Arvada. Judges evaluated nearly 600 different annuals that were all started underneath 2 acres of greenhouse last January. Catch a glimpse of this flower extravaganza in the photo above.

At the annual CSU plant trials, judges evaluate 1,200 annuals.

Colorado State University hosts another one of the 20+ annual All-American Selection trial gardens. Last year, CSU researchers presented more than 1,200 annuals for evaluation.

The 2010 trials are now underway and open for public view on the campus. If you're delivering a student this year, head over to the east side of the campus after the stuff has been dumped at the dorm. Seeing so many flowers in one place is hard to pass up.

The progression of a flower from development to plant trials to patio takes about 10 years. To become a winner, the new plant must be better than what is already on the market in terms of fragrance, form, disease/pest hardiness and more.

The winners must be the showiest and hardiest to survive the cut. All the other blooms that sat pretty for the judges at the trials have long since gone by the wayside so that we can keep enjoying the best of the best.
And that, Virginia, is where flowers come from.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Get Picking! It's payback time in the Garden!

For the best flavor and texture, pick veggies in their prime.

All those hours of composting, planting, weeding and watering the veggie garden are now paying us back with tomatoes, broccoli, corn, cukes, squash, beans and more. But when do we pick this great harvest?

Timing is everything. The time to pick is when flavor and texture are in their prime--which is, after all, a compelling reason to grow your own in the first place. Vine ripened, full-flavored tomatoes picked 10 minutes before they're plopped in the salad are always better than ones from the store.

Pick right before eating/cooking if you can. But most important, pay attention to each veggie's own character that tells us when it's best for picking. Here are some tips to help you pick veggies in their prime.
Cut, don't yank. In general, clean cuts with scissors or hand pruners are best when removing veggies from plants.
Beans (Snap): Pick before the seeds bulge through the pod. They should snap easily into two. Check daily as it doesn't take long for beans to go from tender to tough.
Dried Beans: To get dried beans, leave beans on the plant until the pods turn brown. Harvest when beans rattle in the pod. Remove beans from the pod and put in the freezer 3 to 4 hours to kill any insects or larvae that might be on them. Store beans in a dry, cool container.
Broccoli: Pick and eat broccoli before the flower heads bloom, so check unopened flower buds frequently. Don't expect Colorado garden-grown broccoli to grow as large as the heads from the market as our climate generally produces smaller broccoli.
Carrots: Because carrots are underground, it's obviously harder to tell when to harvest. The tops may show at soil level depending on the variety and that will give a hint of the size. If tops don't show, dig up a carrot with a lot of foliage to check crop development. Mature carrots can be harvested right away or they can be left in the ground to harvest later.
Corn: About 3 weeks after silks form, they will turn dry and brown. Pull back the husk a bit to see if the kernels are filled all the way to the tip of the plant. If they are nice and tender when you take a thumbnail to them, they should squirt milk letting you know it's time to pick.
Cucumber: Because they grow quickly in the August heat, cukes need to be checked daily and harvested young. When to pick will vary by variety, but fruits should be firm. Over-ripe cucumbers can be very bitter or pithy, even before they start to turn yellow.
Squash: Pick all varieties when young and check the plants often. Skins should be tender enough to poke a fingernail through. Use scissors or pruners to harvest.
Tomatoes: Harvest them when fully colored all the way to the top of the fruit and slightly soft to the touch. Gently twist and pull tomatoes from the vine.
Herbs: Cut herbs and use some while they are fresh and let the rest dry for use later. Cutting the plant back will allow it to bush up again.
Late season reminders:
Keep the garden mulched. August brings hot, dry weather, so keep mulching the garden with straw, wood mulch or grass clippings to retain soil moisture. Also keep mulch away from seedlings and the base of plants.
Plant in September. Even if you didn't plant a garden earlier, you can still get the soil ready to plant a cool season crop with lettuce, carrots, onions, garlic and spices like saffron crocus.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Keep planting, it's only August!

We may be on the down side of the growing season, but now is a great time to add plants that give long lasting value to your landscape.

There are a few good reasons why August is a good time to stay active in the landscape. Some perennials aren't even available from the nurseries until late summer. If you want those plants, you have to wait until about now to buy them.


Garden centers and nurseries will also start end-of-season sales during the next few weeks. Those bargains can bring even more value for your landscape dollar.

Around early August is also when we start thinking about autumn being around the corner and the need to show fall color in the yard. And the most compelling reason of all to stay involved in the landscape is that the more we plant this season, the more plants we'll have to enjoy this time next year. Factor in that perennials are planted once and enjoyed for years to come and you have landscape value you can't afford to pass up.

The showy pink plant above is one you may be seeing in landscapes right about now. Disco Belle Hibiscus is one of the plants that blooms mid-season-about the time we're over the petunias and missing the Columbine and ready for a fresh face in the garden.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Now that most plants are really taking off in the garden, it's time to give some support to maturing plants and check for health problems.

Companion Plants like these ward off insects

Upgrade tomato cages

When tomatoes outgrow their first tomato cage, stack another one on top of the first one. Then tie tall branches to the new cage to keep the plant growing upward. While you're at it, thin tomatoes by pruning away smaller branches close to the inside of plant. Also prune any branches that are touching the ground.

Create a tepee for climbing beans
Pine, cedar and bamboo are excellent materials to create a support that is both sturdy and fun. Let the kids paint or decorate the tepee poles for extra interest.

Check plants for insects and disease
Here are some common problems with their tell-tale symptoms:
Flea beetle infestations show up with lacy, torn leaves. Remove and dispose of the infested leaves.
Early Blight, Leaf Spot and Rust have characteristic brown or black spots on the leaves, which will then turn yellow. Remove damaged leaves still on plants and any leaves on the ground.
Blossom End Rot is recognizable by black spots or lesions on the bottom of tomatoes. Remove and dispose of the infected tomatoes. Typically, end rot only shows up on the first crop of tomatoes and not on the ones that follow.
Since end rot develops from inconsistent watering, adding straw or grass clippings as mulch around the plants will help hold moisture and create a more stable environment. Fertilizing with calcium also helps.

Avoid insect damage with proactive planting
Companion plants such as nasturtium, basil and onions strategically placed in the garden will attract and trap insects such as aphids that you don't want on tomatoes or other veggies. Nasturtium is even more effective than marigolds as a pest deterrent, and maybe, even prettier. And did we mention they are also edible?

Water consistently
Since most fungus and bacteria problems are the result of too much or inconsistent watering, follow these watering tips for best results:
Water early in the morning; avoid watering in the hot part of the day.
Use drip irrigation or soak the soil with a hose when watering as over spraying with a sprinkler can promote bacteria growth.

Rotate plants
Make a note of where you planted your veggies this year and rotate them to another location next year. Rotating crops each year so that the same plants aren't grown repeatedly in one spot, helps deter fungus and bacteria growth.



Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

When it's hot there are weeds

When we get to July and the temperatures are hot, the summer crop of weeds shows up en mass in flower beds and shrub beds in particular.
Anytime you're dealing with weeds, the best defense is the proverbial offense. Being proactive right from the start gets weeds under control and keeps your landscape looking neat and trim.

What IS a weed?
We think of the common weeds like dandelions and thistle when we hear the W-word. But a weed can be any plant that is growing in the wrong place. An acorn that falls and starts to sprout an oak tree that will grow under the eaves of your house is really a weed. Any plant that is misplaced for aesthetic or practical reasons needs to be treated like the standard weed and removed.

Hot season weeds
Typical weeds in the hottest part of the growing season include spurge, purslane, mallow, bindweed and thistle. With the exception of bindweed and thistle, one of the best controls is simply using mechanical means to eradicate them-namely, pulling them out or hoeing, if the area permits.

But don't pull that thistle or bindweed!
If you've ever noticed that some weeds seem to proliferate after you pull them, you're right! This actually happens with certain weeds that have regenerative root systems. Literally, the more you pull them, the more weeds you'll get back.
When it comes to thistle and field bindweed, stop before you pull! Both of these weeds have amazingly long root systems. When you pull these weeds, most of the root system remains underground and will simply grow more weeds to replace the one you pulled.

The best control for these weeds is applying a treatment that will kill the above-ground plant and the root system so that they will be dealt with for good. If these weeds are in the lawn, be sure to select a product that will not harm the grass.
Some herbicides used to zap the designated weed may be harmful to other plants due to drift. Be very careful what you spray and when, as even a slight breeze can take the product where you don't want it.


Need help getting your weeds under control?
Call FLM at (970) 472-0690 or email us at foothillslanscape@comcast.net




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Water your garden efficiently, one drip at a time

As gardeners, we are often torn between wanting to provide all the water our plants need to stay healthy, and knowing we also need to conserve water. Drip irrigation is the practical solution to that creative tension.

With drip systems, water is applied directly to the area of newly planted seeds or to a plant's root zone, so there is almost no water loss from wind or general evaporation.

Drip irrigation can be used to water veggies and herbs, annual flowers, perennials and shrub beds. Drip systems are also practical because they can provide automatic watering for hard-to-reach places. The small tubes can be routed to hanging baskets as well as containers on the porch or patio.

Many of us have automatic sprinklers that take care of the lawn when we're away, but still have to ask a neighbor to water the flower pots. With a drip system, all of your plants can be watered automatically--and the neighbor will be glad to know she's off the hook.

Since it requires very little water pressure, drip is usually an easy add-on to an existing sprinkler system. Three basic types of drip irrigation include:

• Micro sprays which emit a mist of water. These sprays are very effective to keep the soil moist while seeds are germinating. They are also good for misting certain veggie crops like lettuce.
• Laser tube is placed on top of the soil and emits water directly from the tube. It is effective around the base of plants like tomatoes. It can also be run to hanging baskets and patio containers.
• Sub-surface irrigation, as the name suggests, is placed underneath the soil and emits water in the root zone of the plants.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC