Give mom black petunias for Mother's Day?

This year, give mom a new twist on Garden Favorites!

You can never go wrong with traditional containers with pink and white or red and white flowers to delight mom on Mother's Day. But this year, you could step beyond the conventional container.

Finally . . . basic black is in with flowers!

It's taken awhile for growers to develop the black petunia, but this year you can find them at retailers. If mom has a flair for drama, she might appreciate the Black-tie Combo available at many garden centers. You can create your own combo, too, using just black and white petunias. Or add some red or yellow petunias for a bright spot of color.

Did you know you can now grow impatiens in the sun?

Also new in 2011 is the sun-patiens. Unlike the impatiens plants we've enjoyed for years on shaded porches and patios, this one grows in the sun! If mom has a south or west-facing porch or patio, now she can enjoy a container of impatiens that won't die of sunstroke.

What's else is new in outdoor color? Everything!

Trendy décor finally moved beyond forest green, so there are now many colors in outdoor furnishings. Think about matching a patio planter to mom's color scheme.

Take a lesson from the monochromatic, pre-made hanging baskets, like Purple Cleopatra now at garden centers, that give bold one-color accents. This one features purple vein petunias combined with verbena and calibrachoa in other shades of purple. Your mom's fave may not be purple, but you get the idea. Working around one color is easy to do.

Adding accents of white flowers, like white geraniums and petunias, as well as green foliage will bring different interest to a one-color pot or basket.

Think practical, too

• If mom loves to cook, give her a container or two with herbs and veggies.
• If she's a tea drinker, plant some tasty mint in a teapot for a fun gift that also lets her pick and brew her own fresh tea. Besides traditional flavors of spearmint or peppermint, other flavor sensations can be found in orange mint and even chocolate mint. Not only is mint good tea, it's also a great garnish for fruit.
• Balance out showy containers with some down-to-earth useful items. Tuck a new trowel, package of fertilizer, gardening gloves or some seed packets among the plants.
• Or get even more practical with the gift of help for her yard. Provide a service for pruning her plants, creating a raised veggie garden or mowing the lawn all season.

In the realm of growing and giving, there are many lovely and useful options.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Got The Scoop On Your Dirt?

Good soil and good seeds make a garden grow

 Experienced gardeners know that the quality of veggies you get out of the ground is directly related to what you put in it.

Use seed tape for uniform spacing.


Everything that happens down in that dirt is what makes plants grow--or not! So starting from the ground up, get the real scoop on your soil--and then the seeds.

Check your dirt
If you don't know the kind of soil you have, your growing efforts may not bring the best results. Having low organic matter in the range of less than 1 per cent is typical in Colorado. So to get soil to the desired range of 3 to 5 per cent organic matter, you will most likely need to amend the soil.

Before adding amendments, however, get a soil test to learn what you really need to add. A soil test (available from Colorado State University for much less than $50) gives important information about the PH of the soil, salt content, amount of organic matter and the content of several minerals like nitrogen.

The CSU soil test kit tells how to submit your soil sample. Results arrive in a few weeks and you don't have to be a scientist to understand them. When you know what your soil needs, you can go about adding it.

Sort out the seeds
Planting old seeds that don't germinate can cost you two to three weeks of outdoor growing time before you know the seeds have failed and you need to replant. That's time you don't want to lose in Colorado's growing season. Check expiration dates on seed bags from past seasons and toss expired seeds.

Can you use seeds harvested from last year's garden? The next generation of seeds from hybridized plants is generally less reliable than the fresh seeds you can buy. Also, as plants cross-pollinate with other garden plants, the mixed-up results land in the seeds--and the next season's plants. Consequently, this year's veggies may look a lot different than last year's.

Seed planting tips
Plant seeds in garden rows that run east to west. The east/west orientation gives the sunniest advantage for your crop and more even plant growth.


Use seed tape to speed up planting and get uniform spacing. You can find these seeds in bags similar to loose seeds at garden centers. Seeds come pre-attached to a paper tape so all you have to do is run the tape down the row and cover it with soil. Within a few days, the tape disintegrates and the seeds germinate.


Plant seeds for your early season crop of cool season veggies--like spinach, lettuce, carrots--before the end of April.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Heading out this weekend?

Weather this week reminds us that we're at the jumping off point for another glorious season outdoors. We're deciding what to plant-more veggies, splashier annuals, more perennials for longer lived color.


Before we get busy and just go plant something, we need to pull back. Think big picture.

What do you want your landscape, your balcony, your front porch, your patio, your curb appeal to do for YOU? Where does your landscape meet your life and how can you make it better?

If your outdoor space is where you want to live (or want to live more) in the warm months, do everything you can to make it friendly for you, your family, your guests.

• Do you need an expanded lawn area for little soccer players to kick the ball around?
• Has the dog worn trails across the grass that need to be remedied?
• Would an outdoor food prep area make entertaining easier?
• If you added some color and greenery to your patio, would that draw you outdoors more?
• Could a real fire pit create a gathering place for the teenagers you'd like to keep closer to home?

Answering these questions is all about having a plan and in the landscaping world, we call that plan a landscape design. The design relates to how we want to live in our landscape in a very pragmatic way. It incorporates the details that make the pet happy, cater to the kids, create privacy and drive the outdoor ambiance we want to enjoy.

On the practical side, a new design can be a problem-solver. Creating the big picture perspective for your space (even a very small one) will also point out problem areas that could be solved. Screening off the AC unit or solving a drainage problem by the downspouts isn't as much fun as adding a fire pit. But solving those problems along the way will help your state of mind and safeguard your property.

This weekend, if you're out planting carrot seeds or pushing petunias into pots, get a fresh take on how you want your landscape to meet up with your life.




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

CUT YOUR WEEDING IN HALF

Bed weeding is a pain for all of us, being on your hands and knees pulling or dragging out the sprayer and lugging it around the yard. It is a job that still needs done but add pre-emergent to your spray mixture and your weeding chore will be considerably shorter. Pre-emergent only attacks seeds that are ready to germinate, so it is good practice to use it every time spraying is needed. It is safe to spray on existing plant material only once you have thoroughly cleaned the sprayer or it can be applied in granular form before a rain or watering event. Typically spreading granular pre-emergent in your beds in the spring will give a good head start. Apply it in April and have weed free beds in May.

Pre-emergent is a little expensive but a little goes a long way so remember to read those labels and apply at the appropriate amounts. Also remember if you are mixing pre-emergent to your round up only spray what you want to kill or areas you want nothing to grow.

Tip provided by FLM's Scott Gablehouse

Ready to plant something?

Carrots can be planted now.

Countdown to growing season!


This weekend the weather was warm. Daylight savings time began. And it's just 7 days until spring. Must be about time to plant something--and it is!
Right about mid-March is when we can plant those cool season veggies. Here are some choices you can start planting now:

• Early lettuce, like bibb
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Carrots
• Sugar snap peas or other peas that mature early.

Once these veggies are harvested in about mid-May, the garden can be re-planted with warm season crops--like broccoli, cauliflower, small cabbage and peas. When that crop is harvested around mid-July, that garden plot can again be planted with a repeat of the cool-season varieties. At that time, you can also add green onions and early-maturing snap beans. These plants should mature and be ready to harvest before the early fall frost.

When planting three successive crops, the key to pulling it all off in about six months is in counting the days to maturity--in other words, the time it takes for the seed to mature and yield vegetables ripe enough to pick.

Iceberg lettuce is generally 60 days from planting to harvest. Bibb lettuce matures in about 46 days--but the crop can be thinned out as early as 28 days. In Colorado's growing season, selecting varieties that mature more quickly, like bibb over iceberg, is what makes those three successive crops possible.

How do you know days to maturity? Check the back of the seed packet. The label will have valuable planting information and that includes days to maturity for the seeds inside.

And don't forget to plant some color! We're still about two months out for planting petunias and all the other annuals. But pansies can be planted as long as they have been hardened off to be accustomed to being outdoors. If you cover them with fabric when temps get below freezing, pansies can be planted either in pots or in the ground.

Pansies are Mother Nature's gift of early spring here in Colorado. They are the early flowers of the season that help us survive until we can go wild planting all those wonderful annuals!




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Ambiance after Dark

The love of being outdoors lures us to drift from afternoon to evening to night-time enjoyment of our patios and backyards. That's partly because outdoor living resonates with our primal needs to connect with nature that get thwarted as we fight for space on the freeway and work in hermitically sealed offices.


At the end of the day, that lounge chair on the patio by the pot of petunias is ever so inviting. And when we can stretch late-day relaxation into the night-time hours, it's all the better.

But if your patio or deck is well lit and the rest of your yard is pitch dark, you know that uncomfortable feeling of sitting in light while being surrounded by darkness. The cozy ambiance of soft lighting and candles where you relax is simply undone by the darkness that stretches beyond. That can feel a little creepy.

The solution, of course, is to add more light--but not too much and not too bright. Adding light to outdoor living areas has to be done strategically and with subtlety.

Lighting up interesting areas of the yard makes the whole landscape more enjoyable after dark--and it cures that uneasy feeling of being surrounded by total darkness. Adding better light to the area by the grill means more food prep can be done outdoors and that's also a convenience factor with fewer steps back and forth to the kitchen.

Outdoor lighting is one of the more recent bells and whistles for landscaped areas--but it's also one of the most affordable options. It can be installed cost-effectively in a new yard and it can also be retrofitted later for not much more expense.

If you're thinking about lighting up the night around your home this season, think about security and safety as well as atmosphere. Notice whether people can see your address clearly at night, whether the sidewalk--and especially steps--are well lit. Outdoor lighting increases home security and it's one of the top items on the list for curb appeal to consider if your home is about to go on the market.




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Need fresh ideas for your landscape?

Find inspiration for your landscape

Whether it's more Zen or more zing your landscape needs, you can find fresh ideas from ALCC's Excellence in Landscape Awards. This year's awards competition showcases the best designs, installations and maintenance projects throughout Colorado--and the photo gallery of recent recipients can inspire you for the outdoor season that's just weeks ahead.

Here are five fresh ideas from these award-winning landscapes that you might want to consider:


• Small spaces can be amazing places for outdoor living. A high-rise balcony or townhome backyard offer great possibilities. Or for an expansive yard, tucking a small living area into an inconspicuous space can make a cozy retreat.

• Outdoor lighting adds security, curb appeal and evening drama around a home.

• There's nothing like annual flowers for outdoor pizzazz. From new spins on traditional designs to exotic flower combos, annuals remain the number one outdoor fashion statement.

• Edibles are in and should not be segregated from the rest of the yard. Carefully placed combos of flowers and veggies not only ward off pests, but bring new visual interest to planting beds.

• Perennials are the newest trend for landscape value. Because they keep coming back year after year, perennial plants are the sought-after landscape investment for the long term. Seasoned gardeners know this--and others are catching on fast to this great outdoor value.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Why buy new seeds?

SEEDS--the miracle of Mother Nature
 
It's mystery and nature's own magic how those small specs and dots fall into the earth and before you know it, spinach, lettuce, herbs, carrots, zucchini, pumpkins and radishes are all over the place.
Spring planting is just around the corner, so now is the time to sort out the old seeds and order new ones.

Can I use last season's left-over seeds?
While some plant varieties will produce seeds that will last for centuries, they are generally the exception. Anasazi beans collected from the cliff dwellings in southwestern Colorado that were planted soon after discovery were good to grow.
Beans, grain and corn are generally longer-lived than other plants--but their hybridized versions we use predominately today don't have a prolonged shelf-life. Best rule of thumb is to check the expiration date on old seed bags and toss expired seeds.

If you have left-over seeds from past seasons that are questionable, you can check them out with a pre-season germination test. Plant a couple seeds of each variety indoors now in a sand/peat mix. If they don't germinate, don't waste your time with them later outdoors.
Planting old seeds that don't germinate can cost you two to three weeks of outdoor growing time before you know the seeds failed and you need to replant. That's time you don't want to lose in Colorado's growing season.

Can I use seeds harvested from last year's garden?

The next generation of seeds from hybridized plants is generally less reliable than the fresh seeds you can buy. Also, as plants cross-pollinate with other garden plants, the mixed-up results land in the seeds.
For example, if you plant seeds from last year's huge pumpkin that grew next to the zucchini, the fruit that grows this year from those seeds may be a surprise. It may not look anything like last year's prize pumpkin. That's part of the magic that matters when you select seeds.

What about heirlooms?

Heirloom varieties are the old-favorite plants that go back many years, some to Colonial days. Heirlooms have been collected and maintained for generations and have not been hybridized. These seeds can be collected for future seasons and will remain true to the original plant as long as they have not cross-pollinated with another variety in the garden. To keep heirlooms going from plant to seed to plant, season after season, keep them isolated from non-heirlooms.

How much and when to order?

For most home gardeners, one or two seed packets per variety are all you'll need. To have the best selection in seeds, place your order soon. Popular varieties will sell out, so be an early bird if you want to catch the best seed.




Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Not the sharpest shovel in the shed?

Get ready to dig!

The snow's melted. The sun came out. Temperatures are rising and we die-hard gardeners have got a hankering to get outside and do something!

Like race-car drivers trembling at the starting line, we're waiting to hear our own version of "Drivers: start your engines!"

Downshift. The best we can say right now is, "Gardeners: sharpen your shovels!"

If your favorite shovel in the shed isn't sharp, now really would be a fine time to get after it. Planting time will be here in a couple months and you will feel good knowing your tools are ready to go.

These are the supplies you will need:

• Rags
• Steel wool
• Mineral spirits
• Metal file

Remove all rust before sharpening the blade of a shovel or hoe. Because rust shortens the life of garden tools, it's always best to keep implements rust free. Wipe off the worst grime with a rag and use steel wool to scrub off the rust. Then wipe down both the metal tool and wooden handle with mineral oil.Sharpen the blade using the metal file. For really dull blades, you may need to take them to a lawnmower repair shop or a store that rents small equipment where they can use a grinding wheel to restore the sharp edge. During the gardening season, use the file on a regular basis to maintain sharpness. All tools perform best when they are sharp.

While you're at it, check out the handles. Using tools with damaged handles is a safety hazard. If the tool head is in good condition, you can replace just the handle. Fiberglass handles are a nice option for replacements because they are more durable than wood and won't put splinters in your hands. If you don't have the time or inclination to replace handles yourself, check with a local rental store as often, they are set up to provide this service.

Revving up: This month, tools are clean. Next month, garden shows open statewide. Month after that, grab sharp shovel and staaaaaart digging!







Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Tuck plants in for a cold winter nap



When the temperature bottoms out, many plants fall into such cold, hard times they don't bounce back. Before the temps hit sub-zero this weekend, however, there's still time to give these plants the TLC they need to survive the bitter cold.

Start by grabbing hold of Saturday to water the lawn one more time. Give plenty of water to slopes and south and west facing areas because these will be the driest areas. This moisture is not only good for the sod, but will also deal with mites that thrive in dry turf. Moisture is one of the best and easiest remedies for these pests. After watering, remember to un-hook the hose.

Next job: seek out your most tender plants to give them extra protection against the cold. Bear in mind that many of our low-water plants that thrive in the dry summer may not be cold hardy in near-zero temps.

To protect these plants, mulch the bases either with straw or shredded wood mulch. Straw and shredded mulch are loose and fluffy and less apt to create the wet and soggy conditions we need to avoid.

Common landscape plants to protect include:

• Grapes which need protection from the root crown and to about 18 inches up the canes. Because the mulch will be stacked high, wrap the pile with burlap to hold it in place.
• Other perennials such as: pansies, roses--including Meidiland and miniature roses, mums of the less cold-hardy varieties, hibiscus and some penstemon.
• Non-native or less hardy ornamental grasses such as Mexican feather grass, northern sea oats, Japanese forest grass, blood grass and pampas grass also need mulching, but the grasses will need to be cut down to about 6 to 12 inches before applying the mulch. Cover the mulch with burlap to keep it in place.

More about grasses. The more cold hardy grasses common in our landscapes include Karl Foerster and native grasses such as blue avena, blue fescue, little blue stem and switch grass. They are generally left uncut during the dormant season to provide winter interest. However, if grasses get broken down by heavy snow, you may need to be cut them back before spring.

Enjoy your Saturday outdoors before the deep freeze hits. As the thermometer drops, take heart in knowing that temps around zero eliminate certain landscape pests we're better off without. There's a warm silver lining in that cold, gray cloud!

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC
Photo courtesy David Winger Landscape Photography.

Got planters on your porch?

Use Containers to Brighten the Winter

Even though you can't be growing petunias and pansies this time of year, that doesn't mean all your outdoor containers have to be packed away until spring.

Filling them with different plants and other natural materials as the seasons change keeps that focal point of seasonal interest going on your porch. In the wintertime, in particular, containers bring a bright spot amidst the cold, dormant landscape.
Here are some tips for keeping porch containers working through the winter.
Less is more. During the winter, there is less competition in the outdoors to draw the eye, so use less for more impact. If you normally have three pots flanking each side of your door, for example, scale back to two filled containers. Or make two large containers and minimize the amount of materials in the other four.

Use fewer items in
secondary pots

Thriller, filler, spiller still applies. Even though the materials may be different in winter, follow the same formula used to combine plants in the growing season. Use a tall element like dogwood branches for thriller, rounded items like dried pods, cones or flowers for filler and a cascading component like evergreens for spiller.

Plan an easy transition from "holiday" to "winter" décor. Many elements like evergreens and pine cones used for holiday décor transition well into simple winter interest. By removing the red bows or glass balls that say, "Merry Christmas," the rest of the container can keep the seasonal interest going until it's time to plant pansies.

Take a sustainable look at your landscape. Many of the components for winter containers might already be in your yard. Create your own scavenger hunt and look for:

• Berries--such as red cotoneaster, blue/green juniper and orange pyracantha
• Cones from evergreen trees and shrubs
• Seed pods and dried plants like yarrow, hydrangea or Echinacea
• Colorful deciduous branches that can be cut such as red-twig dogwood or others with an interesting shape like sumac
• Evergreen branches from trees and shrubs or the lowest branches that came off the Christmas tree when you put it in the stand

If you still need a few more items, the local garden center can supply the rest.

Take time to create your own look that says "winter" and to appreciate the scaled-back ambiance of the winterscape. Sometimes we have to look a little harder this time of year, but Mother Nature has given us much to see and enjoy outdoors.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Why should you just add water?

The entire landscape is thirsty!

Mother Nature has not supported her plant life well this fall. There's been little more than one inch of natural rainfall since early September and an unseasonably warm fall. This one-two punch has left both trees and lawns parched. They have been losing the moisture that needs to be replaced for the plants to remain healthy. Property owners need to step in and help.

Lawns. Drag out the hoses and run the sprinklers to water the grass. Pay special attention to lawns on south-facing and southwest facing areas and on slopes as they receive more drying sun than other areas and that makes them more prone to winter kill.

Water trees with a deep-root
watering device attached to a hose.



Trees. Next, move on to water the trees. Watering them is not as easy as watering the lawn. But remember that trees were one of the most costly investments when the landscape was installed and as they grow, trees become even more valuable. Caring for them properly is an investment in your ongoing property value.

The key to watering trees effectively involves understanding what the "drip line" is and how to water around it. To picture the drip line, envision a circle around the outer rim of the tree where rainfall will "drip" off and hit the ground. That imaginary circle is the drip line.

Next, do a little math to create another imaginary circle that is beyond the drip line. Calculate the new circle by multiplying the distance from the tree trunk to the drip line by 1.5. For example, if the drip line runs in a circle 10 feet from the tree trunk and you multiply 10 x 1.5, that outer circle will be 15 feet beyond the tree.

The donut area between the drip line circle and the outer circle is the most critical area for watering your tree. This is where the feeder roots live and grow and where you need to add the moisture.

Use a hose connected to a deep-root watering tool that you push well into the soil. This device gets water closer to the roots than watering the surface of the ground. Insert the watering tool in a zigzag pattern at regular intervals a few feet apart throughout the donut area outside the drip line. This process will take a little time and energy--but might be a good excuse to get out to enjoy the balmy weather.


Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Artificial or real--which one is the greener Christmas tree?

Cutting down a perfectly shaped, growing tree to deck it in lights for two weeks and then send it to the trash heap sounds like a desecration of nature akin to Aztec sacrifice.

Doesn't basic logic suggest that using the same tree year in and year out would be much more sustainable than cutting down a new tree and disposing of it every year? While the logic seems plausible, the reality just isn't so.

An artificial tree must be used and re-used for 20 years to have a lower carbon footprint than a real tree. Grown trees, on the other hand, support Planet Earth the whole time they are growing by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing oxygen. One acre of Christmas trees creates enough oxygen to support 18 people.

Trees grown on Christmas tree farms are also managed sustainably. For every tree that is harvested at the holidays, two to three more seedlings are planted. The cycle of life continues.

What about all those discarded trees the first week in January? Sending them to the landfill is not a sustainable option. Since most cities have tree recycling programs, however, you can extend the value of your tree through local recycling which will likely turn it into mulch for gardens, hiking trails and animal stalls.

How to select and care for a real tree:

• Do the freshness test by pinching a needle. A rich fragrance indicates a fresh tree. Remove a needle and bend it. If it snaps like a carrot, that's another sign of a fresh tree.
• Maintain freshness by cutting an inch off the base and setting the trunk in a stand that holds at least one gallon of water.
• Avoid the increased fire hazard of a real tree by adding water daily and switching to LED lights. They don't heat up to become a fire hazard. LEDs also use 90% less energy than traditional lights which adds even more to the tree's sustainability factor.

Want to cut your own tree?
The U.S. Forest Service manages 17 national forests throughout the Rocky Mountain region and issues permits for residents to cut down trees within the forests. Learn more.
Consider a "greener" tree this season and enjoy what an artificial tree will never give you--the tell-tale evergreen aroma that emotes the holiday season.

Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

It's time to light up the holidays

The long weekend after Thanksgiving is when most of us start hauling out the holiday lights.

What's broken? What's out of date? What can we put up for more WOW-factor this year? Can I cut the energy cost and still have high impact?
Here are some ideas for a fresh and cost effective look for your holiday lights in 2010.

Multicolor is out
Multi-color displays have been on the downturn for awhile. For 2010, the lighting designers are featuring simple color schemes with white and one other color, or no more than white and two colors.

To gain maximum effect with these uncomplicated color schemes use strands of bulbs in varying sizes. Read on for examples.

Don't pitch the icicle lights
Even though icicles have been around for awhile, they're not passé. They are, however, being used in new combinations that up the impact. String icicle lights as they are traditionally hung to cascade off the gutter line of the roof. This year, add a string of larger white lights with bulbs about 1 ½ inches long (C-7s is the technical term) along the gutter line. The size variation in the lights creates two kinds of light and the appearance of twinkling lights. Small variation, big impact.

New style for trees
Trees also take on a better look when combining mini-lights with the larger bulbs. The larger bulbs give bigger, brighter light. The smaller bulbs add softness to the overall display. Create a new look in your yard by wrapping the trunk of the tree with white mini-lights and making a canopy of one bright color, such as red, in larger bulbs on the limbs.

How to string lights on trees:

• Wrap lights around evergreen trees. If there is more than one evergreen in your yard, wrap lights in the same direction and keep spacing between rows consistent from tree to tree. This technique makes for a uniform appearance.
• For deciduous trees, avoid wrapping light strands in a circular pattern in the branches. Instead, play off the tree's natural structure for a more dramatic look by running the lights along the length of the limbs.

Be creative
Lights don't have to be limited to trees and roof lines. Use other structural elements like pillars, fences and gazebos that can easily be illuminated to add to your display. Also think of lighting whimsical items like old skis, a wheel barrow or the little red wagon for a welcoming focal point close to the front door.

Go sustainable
This year, replace worn out lights with LEDs. They are just as user-friendly as they are environmentally friendly. Have you heard that you can connect 120 strands of LEDs end to end and plug the whole line into one extension cord that goes into a single power outlet? That's the ultimate no-jolt job.

LEDs also use about 80% less power than conventional holiday lights and they last four to five times longer. You will pay more up-front, but that cost is soon recovered in energy cost savings and fewer replacements. Using less total material over a longer lifetime is a major sustainable advantage.



Tip of the Week reprinted courtesy of Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado (ALCC) of which Foothills Landscape Maintenance, LLC is a member. ALCC is the only only professional organization for Colorado's landscape contracting industry statewide. Tip of the Week is copyrighted by Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado and may be forwarded or copied by its members provided proper credit is given to ALCC

Fall and Winter Watering Tips

Fall and Winter Watering
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07211.html


by J.E. Klett and C. Wilson1 (7/08)

Quick Facts...

Water trees, shrubs, lawns, and perennials during prolonged dry fall and winter periods to prevent root damage that affects the health of the entire plant.

Water only when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F with no snow cover.

Established large trees have a root spread equal to or greater than the height of the tree. Apply water to the most critical part of the root zone within the dripline.

Dry air, low precipitation, little soil moisture, and fluctuating temperatures are characteristics of fall and winter in many areas of Colorado. There often can be little or no snow cover to provide soil moisture, particularly from October through March. Trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns can be damaged if they do not receive supplemental water.

The result of long, dry periods during fall and winter is injury or death to parts of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened and all or parts may die in late spring or summer when temperatures rise. Weakened plants also may be subject to insect and disease problems.

Plants Sensitive to Drought Injury
Woody plants with shallow root systems require supplemental watering during extended dry fall and winter periods. These include European white and paper birches; Norway, silver, red, Rocky Mountain, and hybrid maples; lindens, alder, hornbeams, dogwood, willows, and mountain ash. Evergreen plants that benefit include spruce, fir, arborvitae, yew, Oregon grape-holly, boxwood, and Manhattan euonymus. Woody plants benefit from mulch to conserve soil moisture.

Herbaceous perennials and ground covers in exposed sites are more subject to winter freezing and thawing. This opens cracks in soil that expose roots to cold and drying. Winter watering combined with mulching can prevent damage (See fact sheet 7.214, Mulches for Home Grounds.)

Lawns also are prone to winter damage. Newly established lawns, whether seed or sod, are especially susceptible to damage. Susceptibility increases for lawns with south or west exposures.

Watering Guidelines
Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night. A solid layer (persisting for more than a month) of ice on lawns can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.

Plants receiving reflected heat from buildings, walls and fences are more subject to damage. The low angle of winter sun makes this more likely in south or west exposures. Windy sites result in faster drying of sod and plants and require additional water. Lawns in warm exposures are prone to late winter mite damage. Water is the best treatment to prevent turf injury (see fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass).

Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods without snow cover—one to two times per month.

Newly Planted vs. Established Plants
Newly planted trees are most susceptible to winter drought injury. Woody trees generally take one year to establish for each inch of trunk diameter. For example, a two inch diameter (caliper) tree takes a minimum of two years to establish under normal conditions.

Trees obtain water best when it is allowed to soak into the soil slowly to a depth of 12 inches. Methods of watering trees include: sprinklers, deep-root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline and beyond if possible. If you use a deep-root fork or needle, insert no deeper than 8 inches into the soil. As a general survival rule, apply 10 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree. For example, a two-inch diameter tree needs 20 gallons per watering. Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

Newly planted shrubs require more water than established shrubs that have been planted for at least one year. The following recommendations assume shrubs are mulched to retain moisture. In dry winters, all shrubs benefit from winter watering from October through March. Apply 5 gallons two times per month for a newly planted shrub. Small established shrubs (less than 3 feet tall) should receive 5 gallons monthly. Large established shrubs (more than 6 feet) require 18 gallons on a monthly basis. Decrease amounts to account for precipitation. Water within the dripline of the shrub and around the base.

Herbaceous perennial establishment periods vary. Bare root plants require longer to establish than container plants. Perennials transplanted late in the fall will not establish as quickly as plants planted in spring. Winter watering is advisable with late planted perennials, bare root plants, and perennials located in windy or southwest exposures.

For more information, see the following Planttalk ColoradoTM script.
1751, Fall and Winter Watering: during drought

1J.E. Klett, Colorado State University Extension horticulture specialist and professor, horticulture and landscape architecture; and C. Wilson, Extension horticulture agent, Denver County. 1/04. Revised 7/08.

Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating.CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.